A handheld random orbital sander can speed this task along. If, however, you’re prepping to paint an ornamental fence with a very smooth surface, sand the pickets with 120-grit sandpaper for a more finished look. Its 2½-inch-wide blade perfectly levels out putty over splits and holes.Īfter you’ve finished these simple steps, rough-grain fences such as cedar should be ready to paint. Then, turn the multi-tool so you can use the flat front end of the blade to scoop up wood putty and patch any holes in the fence. First, use the sharp point on HYDE’s Black & Silver® 5-in-1 Multi-Tool to scrape splinters and loose debris out of the gaps, because here, too, loose material can protrude and even fall out over time, taking your paint with it. Narrow splits in the wood and visible nail holes can be fixed with a little paintable latex wood filler. Note: Fresh paint will not stick to rot, so you’ll need to remove and replace any rotted fence parts as well as those warped beyond repair. Also check the boards for signs of wood rot, especially wherever fence posts come into contact with the ground (though this deterioration can also occasionally be found on exposed posts and pickets). Secure loose boards with additional nails or screws as necessary. Once you’ve thoroughly scraped away the loose paint, it’s time to examine the fence and make repairs. Inspect every picket to confirm that they’re all firmly attached to the fence rails. Simply flip the scraper and use its hammerhead end cap to reset the nail-and get back to scraping-in mere moments. When you’re armed with the X2, there’s no need to go running for a hammer when you come across a popped nail. And with the X2, you won’t have to slow down too much to deal with popped nails, which can quickly wear out and damage a carbide blade. It takes some practice, but remember: You’re trying to remove only the flakes and not the stuck-on paint.Ĭan’t quite reach the top of a high fence picket? Grab a standard extension pole and connect it to the X2’s Acme-threaded handle so you can scrape high spots while keeping your feet planted firmly on the ground. Hold the scraper against the surface of the wood with the blade at a 20- to 25-degree angle, then slip the scraper blade underneath the loose paint, being careful not to catch on the wood and dig out a chunk. Work with care, especially if you’re scraping older, weathered wood, which is easy to gouge. You simply rotate the triangular blade as needed. Its dual blade can be quickly switched from a 2½-inch-wide blade to a 7/8-inch-wide blade that’s great for reaching into tight spots. You could choose to weigh your pockets down with a variety of scrapers-and waste time switching between them-but it’s so much easier to just grab the HYDE X2 Dual Blade Carbide Scraper. Make sure you don’t end up with a slapdash-looking finished product instead, scrape off all the loose paint at the get-go.Ī wide scraper works great on the flat surfaces of a fence picket, but the blade is too large to remove peeling paint from small gaps between boards, rails, and posts. Eventually, the loosened paint beneath will start flaking off again, potentially taking the new coat of paint-and all your hard work-with it. ![]() Photo: STEP 1: Remove Loose Paintĭo not ignore the cardinal rule of repainting anything: Never paint over peeling paint.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |